All About Fabric

All about Fabric:

Choosing the perfect fabric can be really difficult because it's far too easy to fall in love with a particular fabric, whether it has the perfect drape, softness or even the prettiest print you've ever seen.

The problem is that it often takes extra patience to develop the knack for working with extra fine or very slippery fabric. Thankfully there are techniques and products that can help.

See what fabric is recommended by the sewing pattern, to begin with, as the designer of the pattern usually has an idea in mind of what the finished product should look like.

Start with something simple to build your confidence. It is so easy to lose heart when you are just starting. If you fail, put it to one side - you can possibly return to it and fix it once you have more experience and confidence.

Once you have more confidence, have a go and experiment. If you try with inexpensive fabric, you will have no reason to hold back. If you can't wear it, put it down to a learning experience. You can always repurpose it later. Some 'easy' fabrics can be difficult to work with, while you might just have a knack for working with a difficult fabric. If you are apprehensive, buy at clearance or deadstock very cheap and just give it a go.

Just be sure to check the fabric care label and if the fabric is washable and you intend to wash it, prewashing is a very good idea. The reason is, that fabric doesn't always shrink evenly. Take a photo of the care information before the fabric is cut from the roll, as modern fabrics often have a mix of fibres to produce a fabric with new desirable properties - this means that nowadays, only general care advice can be given, and even then you could find the label contradicts what seems logical.

Brocade

Brocade has a similar look to silk in terms of its lustre, and it has an embroidered finish. It is often used in Chinese inspired kimono garments and is often used in suits with matching trousers or matching skirts. Brocade can also be used to make cushions and curtains. Check the care label. Some Brocades are machine washable, some require dry cleaning and special handling. Some brocade is prone to fraying and should be hemmed before washing.

Traditionally it was made of silk, but can be made of polyester or even cotton.

Boucle

It's often made of wool or a blend. And it can be knotted or looped, it has a bobbly surface. The yarn itself is also called boucle, and it's often used for tailored items like jackets and matching skirts or trousers. Boucle is not always washable and sometimes is dry clean only.

Broadcloth

It is a fabric often available in cotton or polycotton. It's got many uses, including shirts. It can be made from wool. It is lightweight and has a lustre. If the broadcloth is made of silk, it does not have the same sheen.

Challis

It tends to be very light. And very drapey, it can be very slippery to work with. It is often used for dresses and nightwear. Challis, because it's so fine, is often only used in fully lined garments.

Chambray

Chambray is excellent for beginners because it is stable and easy to sew. Take care to wash and dry chambray before sewing, as it can shrink, which can result in crinkled and creased seams.

It is lovely for collared shirts and summer dresses, as it tends to soften with use and washing. It is also excellent for lightweight clothing with a denim look. It is softer and easier to work with, than denim and is great for easing into working with denim.

Chambray can be washed at 30 degrees and can be ironed quite hot, if 100% cotton. Polycotton should be ironed at a lower temperature. If possible, take a photo of the care label on the roll when you buy it.

I have made a few things out of Chambray - it's lovely to sew with. My Dungarees, My Scottie Dog Shirt and don't forget My Burda Blouse. Chambray is also available in some lovely prints,

Chiffon

It was traditionally made from silk, but nowadays you can buy it made of polyester. It's very light, very sheer, well known for its draping ability, and is often used in scarves and formal wear.

China Silk

It is also known as habutai. It is lightweight, looks and behaves like silk, but tends to be less expensive. It is often used for linings and scarves.

Chino

Often used in men's or ladies trousers of the same name. It is a twill weave cotton. It is of a medium weight and can be full. And can be 100% cotton or Poly cotton, and it often has a slight Sheen. Most known colour is beige, but it can be bought in brighter colours. Often used in sportswear, for military use and a lot of camouflage, printed clothing is made of Chino fabric.

Corduroy

Corduroy is recognised for its texture. It has a cotton pile in a woven fabric and it is trimmed to produce vertical stripes. The number of ribs are given in wales per inch. It's available in many widths of rib and it can be printed or in plain colours. Uncut corduroy has an all-over nap texture. Corduroy is often used in casual trousers, childrens clothing jackets, coats and sometimes in ladies' skirts as well.

Cotton

Cotton is used to produce a wide range of fabrics. It is the fibre of the seed, part of the cotton plant. Cotton is picked when the pod has burst to expose fluffy white fibres. Cotton can be used to make sheeting fabrics, chambray poplins, and quilting fabric too. Cotton needs to be pre-shrunk or pre-washed. Unless the weave or ink on the print requires the fabric to be dry cleaned. Normal poplin can often withstand a very hot iron and can be washed many times with good results.

I made my first collared shirt out of cotton; McCalls Shirt.

Crepe de Chine

It is a light weight, woven fabric. Traditionally made of silk using fine twisted yarn. Nowadays often can be bought in polyester. It is good for blouses, formal evening wear, and can be used for light summer blouses or dresses.

Damask

It's a stiff fabric with a Jacquard weave, similar to Brocade. Nowadays can be bought in various fibre blends, linen, cotton and some polyesters too. Often used for furnishings such as tablecloths.

Denim

Denim is traditionally made of cotton but is also available in a polyester blend or cotton with elastane mixed in for stretch denim. Traditionally, it's a strong twill weave. It has a coloured warp and a white weft. This gives Denim, its pale stripes. It is often used for work clothes, jeans, skirts and jackets. It is really hard-wearing and presses well. Denim can be ironed out if it shrinks in the wash. A hot wash can make denim shrink, even after many washes.

Double knit fabric

Double knit is a knitted fabric with the internal and external fabric having the same appearance in the weave. It is often heavier weight than single Jersey. It has a good stretch and good recovery. Often used in dresses, ladies trousers and sportswear. It can be made of cotton or viscose and can include polyester and elastane.

Drill

Drill is a similar fabric to denim. Made of a single colour, twill weave. With a similar texture to denim, it is often used for work clothes and uniforms. It's durable and hard-wearing. Check the washing instructions as it can have the potential to shrink in a hot wash even after years of washing.

Flannel

It is available in a number of different weaves and it tends to be made of brushed fibres, usually wool or cotton. It can contain some polyester. It is often used in suits, sportswear and, depending on the print and the fibre can also be used for pyjamas.

Gauze

It is a light, sheer fabric made of a number of different fibres. It can often look translucent, depending on the colour. It has an open weave and is usually used for summer apparel, bandages and curtains. More recently it has also made an appearance in shops for trousers, dresses, and other womans’ summer wear.

Georgette

It has a similar texture to chiffon. It is heavier than chiffon. It is often used for blouses, evening wear, and sometimes it is used for scarves.

Gingham

It is a plain weave fabric traditionally made of cotton, but can also be made of other blends. Dyed fabric can be woven in striped or checked patterns. Note that it is made by weaving two different colour fibres that give gingham its colouring, similarly to chambray.

Jacquard

Usually made of polyester fibres, it is intricately patterned. The pattern is formed by means of the weave. The pattern of the weave also gives the texture of the fabric. It is often used for tablecloths, curtains and formal wear, particularly jackets and matching trousers or skirts.

Jersey

Jersey refers to knitted fabrics. It can be made in a number of different fibres, including cotton, viscose and even some linens. It can contain elastane or be made without. It can be used for T-shirts and in casual wear, although it is also used for underwear, summer dresses and skirts.

I sewed a lovely dress for my daughter in my post about Batch Sewing.

Lace

Pay special attention to the care label when buying lace off the roll. Some laces have very specific handling requirements. Not all can be washed. Lace is made in a variety of different fibre types. Traditionally it was woven by hand, but nowadays tends to be made by machine. There are a number of types of lace which I will not go into here. Lace can be used as the main fabric of a garment with underlining or without. It can also be used for trims such as collars or sleeves or hems. Lace makes a lovely addition to any garment.

Lawn

Lawn can be made in cotton, another synthetic fibre, or a mix of the two. It tends to be available in plain colours and prints, often used for children's clothing and ladies' summer dresses. It is a lighter weight, but a similar weave to poplin.

Linen

Linen is made of flax. It is very comfortable to wear in hot weather. It's very breathable and absorbent and nowadays you can even find it with a crease-resistant finish. Wash linen the same as you would cotton. Press it using a damp cloth. And you can expect some shrinkage during washing. Ironing does help to counteract the shrinkage in the wash. Be careful to prewash before sewing. Also sew a hem before pre-washing as it tends to unravel easily.

Moleskin

Traditionally made of cotton, it can be made mixed with other fibres. It is a heavy fabric with a nap and it has a suede-like finish. It requires pre-shrinking. It is very hard wearing and can be used for trousers and work clothes and depending on the print or finish can also be used for jackets.

Poplin

Poplin is a suggested fabric for many patterns that are aimed at beginners because it is stable and easy to sew. Take care to wash and dry poplin before sewing, as it has a tendency to shrink, which can result in crinkled and creased seams.

It is lovely for summer dresses and quilts, as it tends to soften with use and washing. You can use poplin for collared shirts and bedding, too. If you use curtain blackout fabric, you can sew some beautiful curtains to coordinate with your bedding or a quilt.

Poplin can be washed at 30 degrees and can be ironed warm to hot, if 100% cotton. Polycotton should be ironed at a lower temperature. If possible, take a photo of the care label on the roll when you buy it.

Poplin from Rose and Hubble can be washed at 40 degrees, can be tumble dried on medium heat and can be pressed with a hot iron, check on an offcut first.

You can buy a range of poplin prints from Minerva Crafts (affiliate).

I made my Shirt Dress and the Lilou Dress from 100% cotton Poplin.

Satin

Satin can be made of cotton or synthetic fibres. It comes in a number of different weaves. It can have a smooth shiny finish on one side and a textured finish on the reverse. Either side of the fabric can be used for the outside of the garment, depending on your personal preference of texture.

Duchesse Satin is a luxurious fabric. It is much heavier than normal satin and is often used for wedding dresses and formal attire - including womans' wedding dresses and men's tuxedos. Charmuesse is a much lighter satin.

Check the care label on the roll as its care instructions depend on what fibres it is made of.

Scuba Fabric

Scuba fabric is made of neoprene rubber faced with a jersey texture. It makes lovely formal and casual dresses, jackets or even hoodies. For formal dresses, if not tight-fitting, it hides most body imperfections. There are prints to suit all tastes from bold or formal to the bizarre.

For hoodies, it makes a lighter garment, perfect for warmer days when there is a slight chill in the air.

For t-shirts, it's durable, colourfast and dries very quickly after washing. There is no need to iron it and it is very stable and easy to sew with a serger. There are some beautiful prints and it is well worth trying. It is really easy to sew, as it is firm enough to keep its shape on the cutting table. It also washes well, over and over - yes, and over again. I have sewn a couple of shirts with scuba and the colours are still bright and the fabric shows no signs of wear. An excellent choice for a beginner who is trying out their new serger (overlocker).

Scuba should be washed at 40 or 30 degrees and avoid ironing it if you can, the heat very quickly damages the neoprene and it really doesn't hold a crease in any case.

My first project with scuba was the second Stella Hoodie pattern (From the Tilly and The Buttons book, Stretch). I also sewed a dress in scuba - I had to grade it up as I bought a size too small - see how I did that.

Shot Silk

Traditionally made of silk. The fabric is produced with the warp and weft in different colours so that the fabric will change colour dependent on the angle of view. Nowadays it can be bought in polyester and other fibres.

Silk

Silk has a lovely sheen and it is known for its drape. It can be used in prom dresses, wedding dresses or for evening wear. It's comfortable, it's absorbent and it can also be mixed with other fibres to give different finishes. Silk should be dry cleaned or hand washed. Definitely see what it says on the label when you buy it. Don't hang silk to dry in direct sunlight - see if you can hang it in the shade so it can keep its colour. Silk cannot be ironed with a hot iron use a medium setting. Some irons will have a silk setting. Just check on a hidden portion of the garment just to make sure. Always start with a cool setting, slowly working to warmer to ensure that you don't damage the fabric.

Velour

Often knitted or woven with a thick pile. Shortly trimmed, it has a similar appearance to velvet. It is suitable for casual Winter clothing.

Velvet

Traditionally made of silk, but can also be made of synthetic fibre. It is produced with a shortcut pile and has a soft texture. It also has a Sheen and a richness which is often used for tailored clothing like men's suits and evening wear. It can also be used for upholstery, for which it is really hard wearing and durable. Note velvets are woven and not knitted.

Viscose or Rayon

Viscose is made of wood pulp and other agricultural products - celulose. It can be woven without stretch or it can be knitted. Viscose can also be mixed with other fibres.

Pure woven viscose should be washed before use in a 30 or 40 degree wash. Sewing a hem on the raw edges will help prevent a thread pulling or fraying in the wash. A pulled thread can be seen in the print and is not easy to fix.

It is lovely for blouses and summer dresses, it has a lovely drape and is cool in warm weather.

The fabric is light and drapes nicely. The fabric has got good moisture absorption and it can come be bought with different textures. Viscose is mildew resistant and moth-proof. Just be careful when marking pattern notches, as the fabric can easily tear into the seam, with awful results.

Viscose jersey can have a very fine weave and is lovely for jersey dresses.

Always check your iron temperature with viscose, depending on what fibres are mixed with it, you could set it too hot. If you use steam, some woven viscose fabrics appear to shrivel with steam - but they do tend to recover.

I made my Lauren Blouse and my Burda Blouse using Viscose.

Viscose was invented over a hundred years ago and was first patented by Charles Frederick Cross and Edward John Bevan of the company Cross, Bevan and Beadle.

The stages of manufacture are:

Collecting the pulp from wood.

2. The wood pulp is dissolved using carbon disulphide to get cellulose xanthate.

3. The cellulose xanthate is dissolved in a solution of caustic soda to create a solution which can be spun - viscose.

4. The spun filament is wet by being forced through spinerets and into an acid bath to create the threads,

Wool

Wool is an excellent insulator and can be used for heavy jackets in winter coats. When it's being properly treated, it can be shrink-proof, and shower proof. Nowadays you can buy wool in many colours and you can also get it in many fabric weights. Check the label on the roll, as it is possible nowadays to buy wool mixed with modern fibres that can be washed in the machine, although it is better to dry clean. If you are unsure.

Sewing on a Budget:

When you first start sewing, you may lack some confidence and you will probably want to buy inexpensive fabrics to start. Making a 'first draft' of a pattern in a cheap fabric means you get a wearable toile.

Here are some links (affiliate) to some reasonably priced fabrics.

Deadstock

Minerva

Fabric Remnants

My Fabrics

Scuba Fabric

Ebay

Fabric Remnants

Ebay

Poplin

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